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Moumoujus

AMP-ISOSTEAROYL HYDROLYZED SILK.

Valuable / HAIR CONDITIONING, NAIL CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING

An advanced acylated derivative of hydrolyzed silk protein, this ingredient forms a semi-occlusive film on the skin. It effectively enhances skin smoothness, moisture retention, and elasticity, contributing to a silky sensory experience.

Summary

skin conditioning hair conditioning nail conditioning

Science

Mechanism of Action

The isostearoyl group boosts lipophilicity, enabling the formation of a robust, water-resistant protective film on the skin. It acts as a conditioning agent, improving moisture homeostasis and refining stratum corneum texture.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Medium confidence
Effective range 0.1–1%
Optimal

N/A

Key findings

  1. 01 Seiwa Kasei Co., Ltd. Technical Data (Promois EF-118AMP)

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

No specific data suggests this ingredient is commonly dusted. Its function as a film-former typically requires targeted formulation to achieve desired effects.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Both
Optimal pH 4 – 9
0 7 14

Stability

Highly stable in O/W emulsions and heat stable up to 40°C during active phase addition. It is designed to be alcohol-soluble (ethanol) while maintaining aqueous phase compatibility.

Conflicts

  • Strong oxidizing agents
  • Nitrosating agents (due to AMP component)

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
1.1%
Sensitization risk Low

Reviewed by CIR in 2016 as part of the Silk Protein group and deemed safe for cosmetic use when formulated to be non-sensitizing. European Annex III regulates secondary amines/nitrosamines for AMP-related salts.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

This advanced silk derivative is valuable for enhancing skin hydration, elasticity, and texture, delivering a luxurious feel across a broad range of premium skincare formulations.

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References

Sources