Science
Mechanism of Action
This ingredient acts by reducing disulfide (cystine) bonds in the hair's keratin structure, transforming them into cysteine residues. This process weakens the protein cross-links, enabling hair reshaping or removal.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidenceN/A
Key findings
- 01 Single and repeated applications of 6.5% concentration did not induce skin irritation in normal subjects (Journal of the American College of Toxicology 1991).
- 02 Single applications of 7.0% concentration did not induce skin irritation, though higher concentrations and basic formulations were noted as potential irritants (NTP Technical Report 2009 / CIR).
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
Ammonium thioglycolate is an active chemical agent used for specific functional purposes in concentrations that are not conducive to dusting practices.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Existing in equilibrium with thioglycolic acid and ammonia, highly alkaline environments (pH 9.0-10.5) are essential for its effective disulfide bond cleavage.
Conflicts
- Acids (releases toxic hydrogen sulfide gas)
- Oxidizing agents (neutralizes the reducing effect)
- Metals (corrosive to metals)
Safety
Safety Profile
This ingredient is deemed safe at concentrations up to 15.2% (calculated as thioglycolic acid) in hair products. EU/SCCS limits it to 8% for general hair use, 11% for professional hair use, and 5% for depilatories, requiring minimized skin contact.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
Ammonium thioglycolate is a valuable ingredient for its specific, highly effective hair-modifying properties, but its use requires strict adherence to concentration limits and careful formulation due to its potential irritancy.
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