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Moumoujus

AMMONIUM OLEATE.

Optional CAS 544-60-5 / CLEANSING, SURFACTANT - CLEANSING, SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING

A versatile anionic surfactant derived from oleic acid that functions primarily as an emulsifier and cleansing agent in skincare formulations. This ingredient creates stable oil-in-water emulsions by reducing interfacial tension between oil and water phases, making it valuable for both cleansing products and moisturizing creams.

Summary

Surfactant Emulsifying agent Cleansing agent

Science

Mechanism of Action

Functions as an amphiphilic molecule where the lipophilic oleic acid tail integrates into oil droplets while the hydrophilic ammonium head remains in the aqueous phase, creating a protective interfacial film and electrostatic repulsion that prevents droplet coalescence and maintains emulsion stability.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Medium confidence
Effective range 2–5%
Optimal

3%

Key findings

  1. 01 Stability testing at 3% concentration demonstrated consistent pH and texture maintenance in oil-in-water emulsions over extended periods
  2. 02 Clinical repeated insult patch testing of oleic acid derivatives at 1-13% concentrations showed no primary irritation or sensitization responses

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

Primarily used as a functional emulsifier and surfactant rather than a marketing ingredient, making dusting unlikely

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Both
Optimal pH 9 – 10.5
0 7 14

Stability

Most stable under alkaline conditions around pH 9.8; reverts to oleic acid in acidic environments causing emulsion instability. HLB value approximately 17.

Conflicts

  • Hard water (forms insoluble precipitates)
  • Cationic surfactants
  • Acidic ingredients below pH 7
  • Strong oxidizing agents

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe as used
Sensitization risk Low

CIR Expert Panel concluded safety when formulated to be non-irritating, evaluated as part of fatty acids and fatty acid salts group

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
No Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Moderate

Our Assessment

Verdict

Optional

A competent emulsifier with established safety but limited to specific pH ranges and primarily functional rather than skin-beneficial applications.

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