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Moumoujus

AMMONIUM ISOSTEARATE.

Optional CAS 191880-49-6 / CLEANSING, SURFACTANT - CLEANSING, SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING

A fatty acid salt that functions as a dual-purpose surfactant and emulsifying agent in skincare formulations. Its amphiphilic structure enables effective cleansing while stabilizing oil-water emulsions in creams and lotions.

Summary

surfactant/cleansing emulsifying

Science

Mechanism of Action

Works through its amphiphilic molecular structure, featuring a water-loving ammonium head and oil-loving isostearate tail that reduces interfacial tension between oil and water phases, enabling thorough cleansing and stable emulsion formation

Research

Clinical Evidence

Medium confidence
Effective range 1.5–5%
Optimal

N/A

Key findings

  1. 01 24-hour patch testing at 1.5% concentration showed minimal to mild erythema in 35% of subjects (7/20), indicating generally good skin tolerance

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

Used as a functional ingredient at meaningful concentrations rather than for marketing purposes

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Both
Optimal pH 4.5 – 10
0 7 14

Stability

Maintains consistent solubility across pH 4.5-10.0 range but becomes unstable in highly acidic conditions where it reverts to free isostearic acid form

Conflicts

  • Acidic systems (pH < 4.5)
  • Strong acids
  • Cationic surfactants

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
5%
Sensitization risk Low

CIR Expert Panel approval contingent on non-irritating formulation practices

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
No Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Verdict

Optional

A functional ingredient suitable for most skin types except sensitive, offering reliable emulsification and cleansing properties when properly formulated.

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