Science
Mechanism of Action
As a hydrophobically modified AMPS polymer, it thickens formulations via electrostatic repulsion and hydration in water. Its hydrophobic portion stabilizes oil droplets through pseudo-emulsification, while its structure 'breaks' on skin contact, releasing water for a light feel.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidenceN/A
Key findings
- 01 Demonstrated effective gelling and stabilizing performance in cosmetic compositions containing active agents like salicylic acid and ascorbic acid without compromising formula stability (US Patent 8980234B2).
- 02 Identified as a preferred amphiphilic polymer for cooling gel compositions, providing a 'quick break' effect and light skin feel while maintaining stability (US Patent 20190231663A1).
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
This ingredient is not reported as commonly dusted in formulations.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
This ingredient is pre-neutralized and cold-processable, maintaining stability across a wide pH range. Optimal viscosity and performance are observed between pH 4.0 and 7.0; however, very high pH (>9.0) may lead to ammonia release.
Conflicts
- High concentrations of electrolytes/salts (causes immediate viscosity loss)
- Strongly alkaline conditions (ammonia release)
- Cationic surfactants
Safety
Safety Profile
Reviewed by the CIR in 2017 as part of the 'Acryloyldimethyltaurate Polymers' group, it was deemed safe for use. As a large molecule, it does not penetrate the skin, contributing to its favorable safety profile.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
This versatile copolymer is highly effective as a thickener and emulsion stabilizer, offering a light skin feel and broad compatibility while maintaining a strong safety profile.
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References
Sources