Science
Mechanism of Action
As an exopeptidase, it cleaves amino acids from the N-terminal of proteins, promoting stratum corneum turnover. Inhibition of Aminopeptidase N (APN) can reduce sebocyte differentiation, thereby decreasing oil production.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidenceN/A
Key findings
- 01 Inhibition of Aminopeptidase N (APN) was linked to an average 13% reduction in sebum over 28 days by decreasing sebocyte differentiation.
- 02 Aminopeptidases are effective enzymatic exfoliants, contributing to improved cell turnover.
- 03 However, aminopeptidases are known to degrade cosmeceutical peptides, which must be considered in formulation.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Enzymatic activity is highly pH-dependent and requires metal ions like zinc or manganese for stability. It is sensitive to heat and strong chelating agents.
Synergies
- Zinc ions (Zn2+)
- Manganese ions (Mn2+)
Conflicts
- Strong chelating agents (e.g., EDTA)
- High concentrations of alcohol
- Heavy metals (e.g., mercury, lead)
- Extreme pH (<4.0 or >10.0)
- Protease inhibitors
Safety
Safety Profile
The CIR has not formally reviewed specific aminopeptidase INCI entities, but their derivatives and common forms are generally considered safe. Some are FDA GRAS for food use.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
Aminopeptidase is a valuable enzymatic exfoliant with sebum-regulating potential, but careful formulation is required to avoid degrading beneficial peptides.
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References
Sources