Science
Mechanism of Action
This extract primarily acts through its triterpenoidal saponins (escins) and polyphenols. It inhibits cyclooxygenase (COX) enzymes to reduce inflammation and suppresses hyaluronidase to maintain capillary integrity, while also scavenging free radicals and protecting against lipid peroxidation.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidenceN/A
Key findings
- 01 At 0.2 mg/ml, dose-dependently inhibited linoleic acid autooxidation (IC50) and scavenged DPPH radicals (EC50: 0.65 mg/ml).
- 02 At 1.0 mg/ml, demonstrated almost complete inhibition of linoleic acid autooxidation and inhibited genotoxicities of various mutagens.
- 03 In vivo/in vitro studies showed inhibition of croton oil-induced swelling and suppression of COX-1 and COX-2 activities, with COX-2 suppressed at lower concentrations.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Highly stable in hydroalcoholic and aqueous systems. Optimal stability is maintained at a slightly acidic to neutral pH (5.0-7.0) to prevent saponin degradation and mimic skin conditions.
Conflicts
- Strongly acidic environments (pH < 4.0)
- Strong oxidizing agents
Safety
Safety Profile
While Aesculus turbinata is not CIR-reviewed, its closely related counterpart A. hippocastanum is typically used at 1-3%. Careful processing is essential to remove toxic coumarins like esculin if intended for higher concentrations.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
A valuable botanical extract, offering potent antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and microcirculatory support for diverse skin concerns with low irritancy and comedogenicity.
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References
Sources