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ACRYLATES/STEARETH-20 ITACONATE COPOLYMER.

Valuable / VISCOSITY CONTROLLING

A synthetic polymer primarily utilized as a rheology modifier to thicken and stabilize cosmetic formulations. It notably improves product application and performance, particularly effective in high-pH environments.

viscosity controlling

Science

It functions as an associative, alkali-swellable emulsion (ASE) polymer. Upon neutralization, its acid groups ionize and repel, causing swelling and increased viscosity, while hydrophobic steareth-20 groups form a stabilizing 3D network.


Research

Medium confidence
Effective range 0.1–5%
Optimal

N/A

Key findings

  1. 01 Studies indicate it improves spreading characteristics, sensory feel, and synergistic efficacy of active ingredients in skin lightening formulations.
  2. 02 Research suggests this copolymer rinses more easily from skin and hair compared to many synthetic polymers, minimizing long-term build-up.

Transparency

Not commonly dusted

The Formula

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH 6.5 – 12
0 7 14

Stability

Supplied as a low-viscosity emulsion, it requires neutralization with a base to achieve its thickening effect. It demonstrates exceptional stability in aggressive alkaline environments and in the presence of hydrogen peroxide.

Synergies

  • Active ingredients (improves synergistic efficacy)

Conflicts

  • Low pH environments (viscosity drops below pH 6.0)
  • High concentrations of cationic surfactants (potential precipitation if not pre-neutralized)
  • Heavy metal ions

Safety

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
5%
Sensitization risk Low

The CIR Expert Panel concluded Acrylates Copolymers are safe when used up to 5% and formulated to be non-irritating. Residual monomer levels are strictly controlled below 20-100 ppm.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Valuable

This copolymer is a valuable rheology modifier, offering excellent thickening and stabilization, especially in challenging high-pH formulas, with a favorable safety and skin compatibility profile.


Related

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References