Science
Mechanism of Action
It enhances epidermal differentiation and thickness by upregulating key markers like filaggrin. Its rich flavonoid and phenolic acid content provides antioxidant defense, while it also acts as an astringent and modulates neuropeptide receptors for anti-inflammatory effects.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence2%
Key findings
- 01 A 2% concentration significantly improved wrinkle and pore appearance over two months, outperforming glycolic acid in skin rejuvenation.
- 02 At 0.5% in nanoemulsions, it boosted in vitro SPF from 14 to 22, indicating synergistic photoprotective effects with chemical filters.
- 03 Formulations with 0.1-0.5% extract proved non-irritating and non-sensitizing in clinical maximization tests.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
While proven effective at 0.5-2% for specific benefits, many commercial leave-on products utilize significantly lower concentrations (0.000005% to 0.04%), potentially offering minimal functional impact compared to reported clinical efficacy.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Highly stable in nanoemulsions; bioavailability and stability are improved when incorporated into glycol-based vehicles.
Synergies
- Nanoemulsions (improves stability and bioavailability)
- Glycol-based vehicles (e.g., propylene glycol, butylene glycol)
- Chemical UV filters (for enhanced photoprotection)
Conflicts
- Strongly acidic environments (may degrade phenolic content)
- Strong oxidizing agents
Safety
Safety Profile
The CIR Expert Panel concluded it is safe when formulated to be non-sensitizing. Formulations with 0.1-0.5% extract showed no irritation or sensitization.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
This well-researched botanical offers proven anti-aging, photoprotective, and soothing benefits, making it a valuable active for diverse skincare formulations.
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