Science
Mechanism of Action
It acts as a potent elastase inhibitor, safeguarding the dermal matrix from enzymatic degradation of elastin fibers. This preserves skin structural integrity, counteracting firmness loss due from aging and photo-exposure.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence0.1%
Key findings
- 01 Ex-vivo studies at 0.1% to 2% demonstrate potent inhibition of leukocyte elastase, preserving elastic fibers for improved skin firmness and elasticity.
- 02 At 0.3% (with hydrolyzed soybean protein), it exhibits dermo-decontracting effects, suggesting potential for reducing expression wrinkles.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Difficult to solubilize and prone to crystallization above 0.5%. Stable formulation requires specific co-solvents like dimethyl isosorbide or ethoxydiglycol.
Synergies
- Hydrolyzed soybean protein (for wrinkle reduction)
Conflicts
- Water-based systems without adequate co-solvents
- Low-polarity oils
Safety
Safety Profile
Classified as a PFAS, it faces increasing regulatory scrutiny due to persistence and bioaccumulation concerns. While generally safe at current cosmetic use-levels, EWG lists it as 'Unacceptable'.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
An effective anti-aging peptide for firmness and elasticity, but its classification as a PFAS raises significant long-term regulatory and environmental concerns.
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References
Sources