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Ingredient directory

Acetyl Methyl Oleanolate

A synthetic derivative of oleanolic acid engineered with enhanced stability and lipophilicity through acetylation and methylation modifications. This multi-functional ingredient targets both sebum regulation and follicle health through precise enzyme inhibition. Primarily recognized for its role in hair care formulations, it offers significant benefits for oily and acne-prone skin conditions.

Directory entry · Individual source review pending

This profile is awaiting an individual source review. Treat its ratings, dose estimates and compatibility labels as provisional; they are not medical advice or proof of a finished product’s effects.

sebum regulation anti-inflammatory hair conditioning pore refining

Science

Mechanism of Action

Functions as a selective inhibitor of 5α-reductase enzyme, blocking the conversion of testosterone to dihydrotestosterone (DHT), which reduces sebum overproduction and prevents follicle miniaturization. Additionally modulates inflammatory pathways by suppressing matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) and inflammatory cytokines including IL-1β and TNF-α, helping maintain skin matrix integrity while providing soothing effects.

Research

Clinical Evidence

High confidence
Effective range 0.1–0.5%
Optimal

0.3%

Key findings

  1. 01 Demonstrated significant 5α-reductase inhibition in vitro, effectively reducing testosterone to DHT conversion
  2. 02 In vivo studies showed improved hair root anchorage and delayed follicle aging processes

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted
Min. effective
0.05%
Red flag below
0.01%

Typically used in meaningful concentrations (0.1-0.5%) due to its specific enzyme-targeting mechanism requiring sufficient active levels for efficacy

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH 4 – 7
0 7 14

Stability

Exhibits excellent stability due to modified triterpenoid structure with acetylation and methylation enhancing resistance to oxidation compared to parent oleanolic acid

Synergies

  • Niacinamide for sebum control
  • Panthenol for soothing effects

Conflicts

  • Strong oxidizing agents
  • Highly alkaline formulations above pH 8

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Max tested
5%
Sensitization risk Low

Parent compound oleanolic acid has established safety profile; commercial complexes like Procapil use 3% total complex resulting in lower final concentrations

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

A well-researched, multi-functional ingredient offering targeted sebum control and anti-inflammatory benefits with excellent safety profile across all skin types.

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