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Moumoujus

ACETYL ASPARTIC ACID.

Valuable CAS 997-55-7 / SKIN CONDITIONING

Acetyl Aspartic Acid is a precision amino acid derivative, engineered to profoundly enhance skin’s structural integrity and hydration. Clinical studies confirm its ability to stimulate critical extracellular matrix proteins like collagen IV and fibrillin-1, yielding measurable improvements in skin firmness and elasticity. Beyond its firming actions, this ingredient also delivers robust moisturizing, antioxidant, and cellular communication benefits, resulting in refined texture and diminished fine lines.

Summary

Humectant Antioxidant Cell-Communicating Anti-Aging Skin Firming Elasticity Enhancer Skin Regenerator Anti-inflammatory

Science

Mechanism of Action

Acetyl Aspartic Acid (A-A-A) operates via multiple synergistic pathways to optimize skin health. It actively promotes keratinocyte regeneration, mitigates dermal matrix metalloprotease (MMP) expression, and reduces fibroblast stiffness by targeting F-actin. A-A-A significantly upregulates the biosynthesis of essential extracellular matrix proteins, specifically fibrillin-1 and collagen IV, which are instrumental in enhancing skin's intrinsic firmness and elasticity. As a powerful humectant, it optimizes cutaneous moisture levels, effectively preventing xerosis and contributing to a visibly plump complexion by attracting and retaining water, thereby reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL). This derivative is also integral to collagen formation, crucial for maintaining skin's structural resilience and minimizing the visible manifestations of aging such as fine lines and wrinkles. Furthermore, A-A-A accelerates cellular turnover, facilitating the shedding of senescent cells to reveal a brighter, smoother skin surface, and provides both anti-inflammatory properties to soothe stressed skin and antioxidant protection against free radical damage.

Research

Clinical Evidence

High confidence
Effective range 1–1%
Optimal

1%

Key findings

  1. 01 Topical application of 1% Acetyl Aspartic Acid significantly increased collagen IV by 13% and fibrillin-1 by 6% within 12 days, leading to measurable improvements in skin firmness.
  2. 02 A 1% concentration demonstrated a 15.8% reduction in the skin firmness parameter F4 after 28 days of treatment, a result comparable to the efficacy observed with 0.1% retinol.
  3. 03 At 1%, the ingredient was found to be well tolerated in the delicate periocular area when applied twice daily in a cosmetic formulation over 14 days.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

Clinical data demonstrate significant efficacy at 1%, indicating its activity as a key ingredient rather than a 'dusting' inclusion for marketing purposes.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Stability

N-Acetyl-L-Aspartic acid is highly soluble in water (250 mg/mL). While a specific optimal pH range for Acetyl Aspartic Acid's stability in cosmetic formulations isn't defined, the stability of related amino acid derivatives is pH-dependent, with deamidation and isomerization reactions influenced by pH.

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Max tested
5%
Sensitization risk Low

Acetyl Aspartic Acid (A-A-A) has been deemed safe for cosmetic applications up to a 5% concentration, adhering to EU Cosmetics Regulation and SCCS guidelines. Comprehensive in vitro testing at 5% showed no phototoxicity, skin irritation, or eye irritation. Furthermore, a Human Repeat Insult Patch Test (HRIPT) on 50 adult volunteers at 5% confirmed no skin irritation or allergic sensitization. While the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) has not specifically evaluated A-A-A, its parent compound, Aspartic Acid, holds FDA Generally Recognized As Safe (GRAS) status for food use, though this designation does not directly transfer to cosmetic applications of A-A-A.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

Acetyl Aspartic Acid is a valuable ingredient, clinically proven to boost skin firmness and elasticity by stimulating key structural proteins, while also providing significant moisturizing, antioxidant, and regenerative benefits.

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