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ACANTHUS MOLLIS LEAF EXTRACT.

Valuable CAS 90320-09-5 / SKIN CONDITIONING

A botanical extract derived from bear's breeches that delivers potent anti-inflammatory and skin-brightening benefits through its bioactive compounds DIBOA and verbascoside. This Mediterranean plant extract demonstrates dual-action efficacy by suppressing inflammatory pathways while simultaneously inhibiting melanin production for more even skin tone.

skin conditioning soothing antioxidant anti-inflammatory brightening

Science

Functions through multiple pathways including tyrosinase inhibition to reduce melanin synthesis, suppression of nitric oxide production in inflammatory cells, and lipoxygenase enzyme inhibition. The extract's mucilage content provides additional emollient and film-forming properties that help maintain skin barrier function.


Research

Medium confidence
Effective range 0.015–0.31%
Optimal

0.1%

Key findings

  1. 01 Demonstrated significant nitric oxide inhibition in macrophages at 15 μg/mL without cytotoxicity
  2. 02 Achieved 50% lipoxygenase inhibition at 104.39 μg/mL concentration
  3. 03 Successfully delivered bioactive compounds through controlled release hydrogel formulation at 3.14 mg/mL

Transparency

Not commonly dusted

Limited commercial usage data available, but research suggests meaningful concentrations above 0.01% are needed for anti-inflammatory benefits


The Formula

Solubility
Both
Optimal pH 6.5 – 8.3
0 7 14

Stability

Primary compound DIBOA shows excellent solubility in both ethanol and aqueous systems, though verbascoside has limited water solubility. Bioactive components may degrade within 48 hours in aqueous environments at elevated temperatures without proper stabilization.

Synergies

  • Carbopol gelling systems
  • Pluronic surfactants
  • PBS buffer systems

Conflicts

  • Highly acidic formulations below pH 6.5
  • High temperature processing above 40°C
  • Strongly acidic preservative systems

Safety

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Sensitization risk Low

Human keratinocyte studies show no cytotoxicity at therapeutically relevant concentrations. Traditional topical usage history suggests good safety profile, though formal regulatory assessment pending.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Valuable

A promising multi-functional botanical with solid anti-inflammatory research backing, though broader clinical validation would strengthen its position.


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