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3-O-ETHYL ASCORBIC ACID.

Valuable CAS 86404-04-8 / SKIN CONDITIONING

A highly stable vitamin C derivative that enzymatically converts to pure L-ascorbic acid upon skin absorption. This etherified form delivers potent antioxidant and brightening benefits while maintaining superior stability compared to traditional vitamin C.

antioxidant skin brightening anti-inflammatory

Science

Functions as a pro-vitamin C that is metabolized by skin enzymes into active L-ascorbic acid. Inhibits tyrosinase and TRP-2 protein expression to reduce melanin synthesis, acts as an electron-donating antioxidant to neutralize free radicals, and stimulates fibroblast activity to promote collagen production.


Research

High confidence
Effective range 0.5–30%
Optimal

2%

Key findings

  1. 01 2% concentration increased skin brightness (ITA°) by 4% in 20 females after 28 days
  2. 02 3% showed significant melanin reduction in human epidermis model after 9 days
  3. 03 0.5% produced 10-fold increase in collagen synthesis in dermal fibroblasts within 24 hours

Transparency

Not commonly dusted
Min. effective
0.1%
Red flag below
0.1%

With clinically proven efficacy at 0.5% and strong stability profile, concentrations below 0.1% would likely be insufficient for meaningful skin benefits.


The Formula

Solubility
Both
Optimal pH 4 – 5.5
0 7 14

Stability

Significantly more stable than L-ascorbic acid against light, heat, and oxidation. Enhanced stability with chelating agents like Disodium EDTA and pentylene glycol.

Synergies

  • Disodium EDTA
  • Pentylene Glycol

Conflicts

  • Strong oxidizing agents
  • Highly alkaline environments (pH > 7.0)
  • High heat processing (above 60°C)

Safety

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Max tested
30%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

Non-irritating up to 30% according to technical data. Rare cases of contact dermatitis reported at 2-5% in sensitive individuals.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Valuable

A well-researched, stable vitamin C derivative with proven efficacy for brightening and anti-aging at clinically meaningful concentrations.


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