Science
Mechanism of Action
Functions as a stable vitamin C delivery system that penetrates the stratum corneum to activate intracellular antioxidant enzymes (HO-1, NQO1) while simultaneously stimulating ceramide biosynthesis through serine palmitoyltransferase upregulation. The compound specifically modulates nerve growth factor and IL-1α expression to prevent neurogenic hypersensitivity while promoting barrier integrity and melanogenesis inhibition.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidence1%
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
With proven efficacy at 0.1% and recommended usage up to 2%, concentrations below 0.05% are likely insufficient for meaningful vitamin C activity
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Demonstrates superior stability compared to L-Ascorbic Acid due to amphipathic structure. Maintains optimal stability at pH above 6.5 and can be incorporated into both aqueous and lipid phases
Synergies
- ceramides
- niacinamide
- peptides
Conflicts
- strong acids
- strong oxidizing agents
Safety
Safety Profile
While parent compound Ascorbic Acid is CIR-approved as 'Safe as Used', this specific derivative lacks individual CIR assessment. Supplier recommendations support up to 2% usage concentration.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
A sophisticated vitamin C derivative that addresses stability and penetration challenges while offering multi-modal skin benefits including antioxidant protection, barrier enhancement, and sensitivity reduction.
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References
Sources