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Moumoujus

3-BUTYLGLYCERYL ASCORBATE.

Valuable / HUMECTANT, SKIN CONDITIONING

A highly stable vitamin C derivative engineered to overcome the notorious instability issues of pure L-ascorbic acid. This pro-drug form converts to active vitamin C upon skin penetration while offering superior stability at higher pH levels and temperatures.

Summary

antioxidant skin brightening anti-aging humectant skin conditioning

Science

Mechanism of Action

Functions as a prodrug that penetrates skin and undergoes enzymatic hydrolysis by esterases to release pure vitamin C. Once converted, it scavenges reactive oxygen species, inhibits tyrosinase to reduce melanin production, and serves as an essential cofactor for collagen synthesis enzymes. The glyceryl component provides additional humectant benefits for enhanced skin barrier function.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Medium confidence
Effective range 1–7%
Optimal

1%

Key findings

  1. 01 Clinical trials demonstrated maximum permeability enhancement at 1.0% concentration, with no additional benefits observed at higher percentages

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted
Min. effective
0.5%
Red flag below
0.25%

Given the established 1% optimal efficacy threshold, concentrations below 0.5% may represent symbolic inclusion rather than therapeutic dosing.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Both
Optimal pH 3 – 6
0 7 14

Stability

Exceptional stability profile compared to L-ascorbic acid, maintaining integrity at 50°C without requiring ultra-low pH conditions below 3.5

Synergies

  • Vitamin E
  • Ferulic acid
  • Hyaluronic acid

Conflicts

  • Strong oxidizing agents
  • Strong alkaline ingredients
  • Cationic surfactants

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
10%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

Covered under CIR safety assessment for ascorbic acid ethers and esters, with typical cosmetic usage ranging 1-7% depending on formulation

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

A scientifically sound vitamin C derivative that delivers stability advantages over pure ascorbic acid with demonstrated clinical efficacy at 1% concentration.

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References

Sources